One doesn’t expect to receive a serving of popcorn when one is seated for a meal at an establishment that lacks visible beer tap handles.

But when the popcorn is drizzled with white truffle oil, as it is at Butter, one can look past the renegade serving and begin to actually enjoy it.

Reason is, it’s absolutely delicious--even to someone (say for instance, me) who doesn’t particularly like popcorn. And the subsequent courses--by chef Ryan Poli, who has worked at The French Laundry in Yountville, Calif., and Le Francais in Wheeling--just keep getting better.